Su böreği recipe: Turkish water börek with cheese and parsley
Su böreği means “water börek”, and it is the one many Turks think of as the finest börek of all. Thin sheets of egg dough are boiled one by one, like lasagne, then layered in a tray with melted butter and a filling of white cheese and parsley, and baked until the top is crisp and golden while the inside stays soft and almost creamy.
It is a celebration dish, made for holidays, engagements and weddings, and a staple of good börekçi (börek bakeries). Wikipedia’s entry on su böreği calls it one of the most common börek in Turkey. Making it at home is a project, but not a hard one: you need a rolling pin, a big pan of boiling water and an afternoon.
What is su böreği?
Su böreği (soo bur-eh-ee) is a baked, layered pastry from Ottoman cooking. Where most börek use thin, dry yufka (filo-like pastry), su böreği uses sheets of a firm egg dough that are boiled briefly before layering. This gives it a texture somewhere between pasta and pastry: tender and slightly chewy inside, crisp on top and underneath.
The classic filling is crumbled beyaz peynir (white cheese, similar to feta) with plenty of parsley. Some regions use a minced meat and onion filling instead. As Great British Chefs explains in its guide to börek, the filling is scattered sparingly between the boiled layers, so the soft dough is the main event.
Su böreği in Turkey
Many people still make it at home for special occasions, but most buy it by the slice from a börekçi for breakfast, cut into squares and served with a glass of tea. Chef Musa Dağdeviren of Istanbul’s Çiya Sofrası included a su böreği in The Turkish Cookbook (Phaidon, 2019), and his recipe has been published online.
Ingredients
Makes one 30 x 25cm tray; serves 8–10.
For the dough
- 500g plain flour, plus extra (or cornflour) for rolling
- 5 medium eggs
- 1 tsp salt
- 1–3 tbsp water, if needed
For the filling
- 300g beyaz peynir or feta, finely crumbled
- 100g grated mozzarella (optional, for a softer filling)
- Bunch flat-leaf parsley (about 30g), finely chopped
For layering
- 150g unsalted butter, melted
- 3 tbsp sunflower oil
- Salt for the boiling water
How to make su böreği
1. Make the dough
Put the flour and salt in a large bowl, make a well and add the eggs. Mix with a fork, then knead for 10 minutes into a firm, smooth dough, adding water a spoonful at a time only if it will not come together. It should be stiffer than bread dough. Cover and rest for 30 minutes.
2. Divide and roll
Divide the dough into 8 equal balls and cover them. Mix the melted butter and oil. On a surface dusted with flour or cornflour, roll each ball into a thin sheet a little bigger than your tray, about 2mm thick. Keep the rolled sheets dusted and covered with a tea towel so they do not dry out.
3. Lay the base
Brush a 30 x 25cm baking tray with the butter mixture. Lay one unboiled sheet in the bottom, letting it come up the sides, and brush it with butter. Heat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan).
4. Boil the sheets
Bring a wide pan of salted water to the boil and have a large bowl of cold water ready. Boil one sheet at a time for about 30 seconds, until it floats and wrinkles. Lift it out with a slotted spoon or two spatulas into the cold water, then lift out, shake off the water and lay it in the tray. It does not need to be flat; folds and ruffles are fine. Brush with butter.
5. Layer and fill
Repeat with two more boiled sheets, buttering each one. Mix the cheeses and parsley and spread over evenly. Boil and layer three more sheets the same way, buttering each. Finish with the last sheet unboiled, tucking the edges in, and pour over the remaining butter.
6. Bake
Cut into squares with a sharp knife if you like, or leave whole. Bake for 35–45 minutes until deep golden and crisp on top. Leave to rest for 15–20 minutes before cutting so the layers set.
Watch: how to make su böreği
Cooking Gorgeous, a Turkish recipe channel, shows how to roll, boil and layer the sheets at home in this video.
Tips for the best su böreği
- Roll the sheets as thin and even as you can. A long, thin Turkish rolling pin (oklava) makes it easier.
- Boil the sheets quickly. Over-boiled dough tears and turns gummy.
- Be generous with the butter between layers; it is what keeps the inside tender.
- Let the börek rest before cutting, or the layers will slide.
- For a quick version, layer shop-bought yufka dipped in a mix of milk, egg and oil instead of boiled sheets. It is not the same, but it is good.
- Leftovers reheat well in a hot oven for 10 minutes, covered loosely with foil.
What to serve with su böreği
Su böreği is perfect for a Turkish breakfast with a glass of Turkish tea, olives, tomatoes and cucumber. For brunch, put it beside menemen and simit. It also goes well with a bowl of mercimek çorbası for lunch.
Where to eat su böreği in London
Many Turkish bakeries and börekçis in London sell su böreği by the slice, especially in the morning. Browse our Turkish bakeries and börek shops in London, or see our guide to Turkish breakfast in London for places that serve it with a full spread.
- Ayintap Pastanesi – Turkish bakery & börek in Edmonton
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- Taş Fırın Edmonton – Turkish bakery & börek in Edmonton
- Sultan Kitchen Walthamstow – Turkish bakery & börek in Walthamstow
- Pera Artisan Patisserie – Turkish bakery & börek in Harringay & Green Lanes
- Gaziantep Pastanesi – Turkish bakery & börek in Edmonton
See all 16 Bakery & Börek places in London
Su böreği FAQs
Why is it called water börek?
Because the dough sheets are boiled in water before they are layered and baked. This is what gives su böreği its soft, layered texture.
Can I use filo pastry for su böreği?
Filo is too thin to boil. Use Turkish yufka, which is thicker, dipped in a milk and egg mixture for a quick version, or make your own dough as here.
Can I make su böreği ahead?
Yes. Assemble it, cover and keep in the fridge for up to 12 hours before baking, or bake it fully and reheat. It also freezes well once baked.
What cheese is best for su böreği?
Turkish beyaz peynir is traditional. Feta works well; if it is very salty, soak it in cold water for 30 minutes first. A little mozzarella makes the filling softer.
Photo: Samizambak, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
