Levrek buğulama recipe: Turkish steamed sea bass with tomatoes
Levrek buğulama is sea bass cooked in a covered pan with onions, tomatoes, peppers, garlic and lemon, so the fish steams gently in the juices of the vegetables. It comes out moist and delicate, with a light, fragrant broth that is perfect for mopping up with bread. Buğulama refers to the method: the Wikipedia overview of Turkish cuisine describes it as a slow poaching method used for fish.
Levrek (sea bass) is one of the most popular fish in Turkey, and it is easy to find in the UK too. This is a forgiving recipe for anyone nervous about cooking fish: no frying, no turning, just one pan and a lid.
What is levrek buğulama?
Turkish fish cookery tends to keep things simple. Fish is grilled, fried, baked in paper or cooked buğulama-style, steamed in a closed pan with vegetables and a little liquid. The same treatment is used for other fish such as grey mullet, bream or bonito, and for small fish such as hamsi.
Sea bass is a natural choice. According to Wikipedia’s European seabass article, Turkey is the world’s biggest producer of European sea bass, so it is an everyday fish in Turkish homes and on the menus of the balık restoranı (fish restaurants) along the Aegean and the Bosphorus.
Variations
Some cooks add mushrooms, a few potato slices or a splash of white wine; others finish with a little butter or plenty of dill. A related speciality, pazıda levrek, wraps sea bass in chard leaves before it is cooked.
Ingredients
Serves 4.
For the fish
- 4 sea bass fillets, skin on (about 140g each), or 2 whole sea bass (about 450g each), cleaned
- ½ tsp salt
- ¼ tsp black pepper
For the vegetables
- 4 tbsp olive oil
- 1 medium onion, thinly sliced into half-moons
- 3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 2 Turkish green peppers (or 1 green bell pepper), sliced
- 150g chestnut mushrooms, sliced (optional)
- 3 ripe tomatoes, chopped, or 1 tomato grated plus 2 sliced
- 1 bay leaf
- ½ tsp salt
- ½ tsp pul biber (Turkish chilli flakes)
- 100ml water or fish stock (or 50ml water and 50ml dry white wine)
- 1 lemon: half juiced, half thinly sliced
- A small bunch of flat-leaf parsley or dill, chopped
How to make levrek buğulama
1. Prepare the fish
Pat the fillets dry, check for pin bones and season both sides with the salt and pepper. If using whole fish, make two or three shallow cuts in each side and season inside and out.
2. Soften the vegetables
Heat the olive oil in a wide, lidded frying pan or sauté pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes until soft but not coloured. Add the garlic, peppers and mushrooms and cook for 4–5 minutes more.
3. Add the tomatoes
Stir in the tomatoes, bay leaf, salt and pul biber and cook for 3–4 minutes until the tomatoes start to collapse. Pour in the water or stock and lemon juice and bring to a gentle simmer.
4. Steam the fish
Lay the fish on top of the vegetables, skin side up, and place the lemon slices over it. Cover tightly and cook on a low heat for 8–10 minutes for fillets, or 15–20 minutes for whole fish, until the flesh is opaque and flakes easily. Do not stir; just spoon a little of the juice over halfway through.
5. Serve
Scatter with parsley or dill and serve straight from the pan, spooning the vegetables and juices over the fish.
Watch: how to make levrek buğulama
This video shows a sea bass buğulama being prepared in a pan.
Tips for the best levrek buğulama
- Use a pan with a tight-fitting lid; the steam does the cooking, so you need to keep it in.
- Keep the heat low once the fish goes in. A hard boil will break up the delicate flesh.
- Ripe, flavourful tomatoes make the broth. Out of season, use good tinned chopped tomatoes.
- Whole fish on the bone give the juiciest result and more flavour in the broth.
- For an oven version, put everything in a baking dish, cover with foil and bake at 190°C (170°C fan) for 15–20 minutes for fillets.
What to serve with levrek buğulama
Serve levrek buğulama with crusty bread or plain rice pilav, and a simple rocket and red onion salad. For a meyhane-style fish dinner, start with meze such as haydari and patlıcan salatası (smoky aubergine salad), with a plate of hamsi tava or midye dolma before the main course.
Where to eat levrek buğulama in London
Sea bass is a regular on the menus of London’s Turkish fish restaurants, usually grilled but sometimes steamed or baked. Browse our Turkish seafood restaurant listings and our guide to Turkish seafood restaurants in London.
- Sarıyer Balık – Turkish meyhane in Newington Green
- The Midyeci – Turkish meyhane in Dalston & Stoke Newington
- Filika Restaurant Wanstead – Turkish meze & fine dining in Wanstead
- Midye & Kokoreç Garden – Turkish seafood in Edmonton
See all 4 Seafood (Balık) places in London
Levrek buğulama FAQs
What does buğulama mean?
Buğulama comes from buğu, meaning steam or vapour. It describes fish or meat cooked slowly in a covered pan in its own steam and juices with vegetables.
Can I use other fish?
Yes. Sea bream (çipura), grey mullet, cod loin or hake all work. Adjust the time to the thickness of the fish.
Should I leave the skin on?
Leaving the skin on helps the fillets hold together during cooking. You can peel it off before eating if you prefer.
Can I make levrek buğulama ahead?
The vegetable base can be made a few hours ahead and reheated, but cook the fish just before serving so it does not overcook.
